Episode from the podcastBeyond the Bird: Untold Stories of Thanks and Gathering

Ep.2 From Farm to Kitchen to Table

Released Monday, 4th November 2024

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Ep.2 From Farm to Kitchen to Table

Monday, 4th November 2024

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Welcome to Beyond the Bird: Untold Stories of Thanks and Gathering. Last week we explored Thanksgiving's historical evolution. Today, we dive into the massive undertaking that brings this feast to American tables - from farm to kitchen to table, and increasingly, from smartphone to doorstep.

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Welcome to Beyond the Bird: Untold Stories of Thanks and Gathering. I'm your host, and today we're starting at the beginning – but maybe not the beginning you're expecting. Before we had football games and Black Friday sales, before that iconic Norman Rockwell painting of Grandma serving turkey, even before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock, humans have been gathering to express gratitude for the harvest. It's a practice as old as agriculture itself, and it crosses every cultural boundary we've ever drawn. The Green Corn Ceremony, still celebrated today by many Native American tribes including the Muscogee Creek, Cherokee, and Seminole, predates European contact by centuries. This ancient ceremony traditionally occurs during the final weeks of summer when the corn first becomes edible. More than just a harvest celebration, it serves as a time of renewal, forgiveness, and community building. The ceremony can last several days, incorporating fasting, sacred dances, and ritual cleansing. At its heart lies a profound message of gratitude – not just for the corn, but for the intricate connections between people, land, and spirit. Across the world, harvest festivals share remarkable similarities despite their distinct cultural contexts. The Jewish celebration of Sukkot, dating back to ancient times, commemorates both the harvest and the Exodus from Egypt. For seven days, families construct temporary shelters called sukkahs, decorated with harvest fruits and vegetables. They eat their meals in these structures, a practice that connects modern celebrants with thousands of years of agricultural and spiritual tradition. In East Asia, the Mid-Autumn Festival, celebrated in China, Vietnam, Korea, and other countries, traditionally marked the end of the harvest season. Dating back over 3,000 years to China's Shang Dynasty, this festival centers around themes of gratitude, family reunion, and abundance. The sharing of moon cakes, the lighting of lanterns, and gathering with family all speak to universal human desires to express thanks and strengthen community bonds. But what about the story we traditionally associate with American Thanksgiving? The historical record of the 1621 gathering shows a more complex picture than the familiar elementary school pageant version. The three-day event, which wasn't actually called "Thanksgiving" at the time, involved approximately 50 English colonists and 90 men from the Wampanoag tribe. Historical accounts, including Edward Winslow's firsthand description in "Mourt's Relation," tell us the Native American delegation arrived after hearing celebratory gunfire – they weren't initially invited to the colonists' harvest celebration. This has been a Quiet Please production. Head over to Quiet Please dot A I to “Hear What Matters” The few surviving primary sources suggest this gathering merged English harvest home traditions with Native American diplomatic customs. The English colonists were celebrating their first successful harvest in a new and challenging land. The Wampanoag, led by Massasoit, had already experienced devastating losses from European diseases and were carefully navigating a complex political landscape. Their participation represented both diplomatic pragmatism and their own long-standing traditions of marking successful harvests. The transformation of this harvest celebration into our modern American Thanksgiving owes much to one remarkable woman: Sarah Josepha Hale. As editor of Godey's Lady's Book, the most widely circulated magazine in antebellum America, Hale wielded considerable cultural influence. Beginning in 1846, she launched what would become a 17-year campaign to establish Thanksgiving as a national holiday. In her editorials and private letters, preserved in the archives of American periodicals, Hale argued passionately that a unified Thanksgiving celebration could help heal a increasingly divided nation. "We have too few holidays," she wrote in one of her many editorials. "Thanksgiving, like the Fourth of July, should be considered a national festival and observed by all our people." Hale's letters to five consecutive presidents, now preserved in the Library of Congress, reveal her persistent vision of Thanksgiving as a unifying force. She wrote to Taylor, Fillmore, Pierce, Buchanan, and finally Lincoln, each time refining her argument for why America needed this holiday. Her letters included detailed suggestions for traditional recipes and customs, many of which we still associate with Thanksgiving today. When Abraham Lincoln finally proclaimed Thanksgiving a national holiday in 1863, the country was in the midst of its bloodiest conflict. The timing was not coincidental. Lincoln's proclamation, drafted by Secretary of State William Seward, explicitly positioned Thanksgiving as a force for unity and healing. Even in the midst of civil war, the proclamation noted, the nation had much to be grateful for – productive fields, abundant harvests, and growing industrial strength. The holiday's evolution through American history reflects the nation's changing circumstances. During the Gilded Age of the late 19th century, elaborate Thanksgiving menus published in newspapers and magazines showcased the period's fascination with luxury and excess. Surviving menus from New York's famous Delmonico's restaurant feature dozens of courses, while home cooking magazines offered ambitious readers recipes for everything from turtle soup to elaborate molded ice creams. The Great Depression brought a stark shift in Thanksgiving celebrations. Newspaper archives from the period show communities coming together to ensure everyone could participate in the holiday. Soup kitchens served turkey soup instead of whole turkeys, stretching limited resources to feed as many as possible. The Women's Page of the New York Times regularly featured articles about economical Thanksgiving menus and tips for stretching leftovers. World War II transformed Thanksgiving into a powerful symbol of American identity. The U.S. Government's War Advertising Council launched campaigns encouraging families to save food so that more could be sent to troops overseas. LIFE magazine's wartime Thanksgiving issues featured photographs of American soldiers celebrating the holiday in foxholes and military bases around the world, while newspapers published advice about managing holiday meals under rationing. The postwar prosperity of the 1950s cemented many of our modern Thanksgiving traditions. This was when the turkey industry really took off, with companies like Butterball beginning their turkey hotlines. Television brought new Thanksgiving traditions into American homes, from football games to the Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade, which had actually begun in 1924 but reached national prominence through TV broadcasts. The social movements of the 1960s and 1970s brought new perspectives on Thanksgiving's historical narrative. In 1970, the United American Indians of New England established the National Day of Mourning, observed on Thanksgiving Day at Plymouth Rock. This annual gathering provides a platform for Native Americans to share their historical perspective and honor their ancestors. The event continues today, drawing participants from across the country and helping to broaden public understanding of Native American history. The changing demographics of American society have also transformed how Thanksgiving is celebrated. Census data shows that between 1970 and 2020, the foreign-born population in the United States more than quadrupled. This demographic shift is reflected in the evolution of Thanksgiving menus. The New York Times food section archives reveal an increasing inclusion of international flavors in Thanksgiving recipes starting in the 1980s. Traditional turkey shares table space with dishes reflecting America's diverse cultural heritage – from tamales to baklava, kimchi to curry. The rise of food media in the 1990s brought new attention to regional Thanksgiving traditions. Southern Living magazine's archives document distinctive Southern Thanksgiving traditions, like cornbread dressing and bourbon-pecan pie. Meanwhile, publications like Sunset magazine highlighted West Coast celebrations incorporating local ingredients like sourdough bread, Dungeness crab, and wine country influences. Technology has also shaped modern Thanksgiving celebrations. The Butterball Turkey Talk-Line, established in 1981 with just six operators answering 11,000 calls in its first year, now handles more than 100,000 questions each November through calls, texts, social media, and even Amazon Alexa. Their records provide an fascinating glimpse into changing American cooking habits and concerns over the decades. The early 2000s saw the emergence of "Friendsgiving," a term first appearing in print around 2007 according to Merriam-Webster. This informal celebration among friends typically occurs before or after the traditional Thanksgiving holiday and reflects changing social patterns, particularly among younger Americans who often live far from their families. Economic changes have also influenced how Americans celebrate. During the 2008 financial crisis, newspaper reports showed a surge in potluck-style celebrations and simplified menus. The Great Recession also coincided with growing interest in local food movements, leading to increased demand for heritage turkey breeds and locally sourced ingredients, as documented by the National Turkey Federation's annual reports. The COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 forced perhaps the most dramatic reimagining of Thanksgiving since the holiday's nationalization. According to Gallup polls, nearly three in five Americans modified their Thanksgiving plans that year. Virtual gatherings became commonplace, while recipe websites reported unprecedented interest in smaller-scale cooking instructions and creative alternatives to traditional large gatherings. Environmental awareness has increasingly

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